what do i need to install a solid roller cam in my big block mopar

  1. Kern Dog

    Kern Domestic dog I like girls that wiggle FBBO Gilt Member

    Hello all,
    I was getting ready to install the roller rocker arm kit and measure for a ready of pushrods when I thought of something.
    If I order the pushrods and install them on the 440/493, they won't piece of work if I decide to go with a solid flat tappet or a roller camshaft. Theres $200 wasted, correct?

    Here are the specs of my engine, for those that haven't read whatever of my other posts:
    440 block, .030 over with a 4.15 stroke. Edelbrock RPM heads 84cc heads. Edelbrock Performer RPM intake, Demon 850 VS carb with 85/92 jets. TTI two" headers 2 1/2" exhaust.
    Calculated compression ratio of x.73 to i. 292/509 camshaft installed straight up. 160 thermostat.
    727 with 9 3/4" converter, Gear Vendors OD, 3.91 gears.
    I looked at a few websites and landed on the Hughes Engines site. They don't list any specs for their solid roller cams because they are supposed to be custom ground. Since I will be using the Mancini/Harland Sharp rocker artillery, I could go with a solid or hydraulic roller. I'1000 not sure which way to go here. As stated elsewhere, this is not an all out race engine. I like to drive the car more than upwardly and down a dragstrip. I've fabricated 3 trips of around g miles and intend to do more than. Setting valve lash once or twice a twelvemonth wouldn't bother me if there was a performance or durability gain to exist had. In truth, I am not totally convinced that a roller cam is necessary. I have read almost EDM lifters that provide ameliorate oiling between the lifters and lobes as well equally the "Pro-Plasma" treatment offered past Comp cams.

    My intended goals may sound far fetched to some, merely I promise that they are attainable. I desire to be able to run strong on pump gasoline in 40-100 degree weather. I want to exist able to drive the motorcar short and long distances and become reasonable fuel economy. I've seen 12.five mpg with the current combo. If I lost a piffling of economy but gained power and had less or NO detonation, I'd be quite happy with that.

    I've read in Andy Finkbieners book about 600 HP 500 inch engine builds. Am I knocking on the door of 500 or more HP with the right cam even with UNported heads?
    If I decided to drag race the car, what range of ET and MPH could be expected in a 4000 lb B body with three.91 gears? Is it possible to get into the 11s with a combo like mine?

    Final edited: Jun 25, 2013
  2. cdr

    cdr FBBO Gilded Member FBBO Gold Fellow member

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    i am going flat tappet for a couple of reasons 1. roller cam have to use a bronze gear on oil pump shaft ii. there can be lifter bore problems when converting to a roller, i am going with short travel tooled steel flat tap,,made by trend only my stance after lots of enquiry

    http://trendperform.com/

    EC904CH-2H .904 Diameter - Oil hole in foot, low motility

  3. Kern Dog

    Kern Domestic dog I similar girls that wiggle FBBO Aureate Member

    I'm going to make some calls tomorrow, just in the meantime I found a cam grind that looks promising:
    Comp Cams # 294H 250 I @ .050 256 East @ .050 .519 I 524 East. With my 1.6 rocker arms, that moves it upwardly to .553/558. I looked at the lifters from Comp and was a scrap confused. The 822 lifters are priced around $fourscore and have a wide oil band, The 824 are virtually double at $134 and have a thin oil ring. What departure would the deigns brand? Would the sparse band pb to More oil pressure to the summit end? Would the thicker oil band drain off force per unit area?
  4. Kern Dog

    Kern Dog I similar girls that wiggle FBBO Gold Member

    Thanks for the proffer about the Johnson lifters. I'll phone call them today.
  5. Get a roller don't fifty-fifty waste your time with flat cams, and i had already told you where to proceed the specs and where to await and yous're still not really listening... IN THE 260@50 area is the lesser for what you want with what you accept.
  6. You go along making the error that you're edifice a 440 (umpteen others likewise), yous no longer have annihilation 440 other than the outside package and visual appearance... zero virtually your set upward is wanting what you're looking at, or going to perform to WHAT It SHOULD, you are beyond off the shelf for 440 cams, certain you tin apply it , but it's not correct, yous could easily make more hp then you are looking for but y'all're not.
    I am not mad nor angry, information technology is not my motorcar simply i'd rather see you in the 700+h area rather than 550h
    I have a 4200 lb car, very similar bottom terminate same comp merely about too except im slightly higher (11.2), streetable and will run in the 10'southward on a flat dial and property a lazy third gear cruise to the line, besides w/gv but 4.three gear, other than custom headers w/ ii.12/.25 pri to a 4" merge coll and i also utilise the large I heads you tin can be doing similar (some machining differences im sure and parts used) .
    I am simply trying to indicate you in a meliorate direction.
    • Like Like ten ane
    • Both of those cams are non what i would employ, i would go to 108/106cl 268 to 280, 600+ , i would not be looking at hughes, y'all need to telephone call cam companies like comp, bullet and speak with them about special custom grinds, you won't observe the right cam in a itemize nor annihilation like mine.
      If yous think youre gonna lose low finish or something because how wild the cam is, you won't
    • IQ52

      IQ52 Well-Known Member

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      Aargh, the 824 lifter is the low operation (like the 822) but for the early on engines ('58-'67) with the very pocket-size (smaller than v/16) ball end on the pushrod.

      - - - Updated - - -

      The 294H has an intake closing signal of 51 degrees @ .050" and will give you a dynamic of 8.5:1 compression. Still too shut to detonation without some very fine timing curve work. Doesn't anyone call Comp Cams and just ask them what the cam timing really is?

      NEVER thought I would say this but, I COMPLETELY hold with Supershafts.

    • Kern Dog

      Kern Canis familiaris I like girls that wiggle FBBO Aureate Member

      Yeah... I HAVE called Comp twice and received low functioning answers for my high performance engine. I got my numbers from the Comp cams website becaust I accept had strange luck with their tech guys.
      Call up elsewhere I mentioned that Ane of their guys suggested that I continue the '509 cam because information technology would be fine. Another guy said that switching apartment tappet lifters shouldn't exist a trouble if the engine simply had a few hours of run time on it. It is considering of this that I am hesitant to trust them. Mayhap I had the strange luck of getting the to the lowest degree qualified tech guy each time I have chosen?
    • IQ52

      IQ52 Well-Known Member

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      I would NEVER telephone call the cam help line for a camshaft recommendation, just for hard facts on durations, lifts, and dimensions like diameters, thicknesses.

      Comp had NO IDEA that if you used their cam gears on a Ford engine with a torrington thrust begetting retentivity plate, it would have .085" crush on the thrust bearings. Without that knowledge, it takes about thirty seconds to wipe out the bearings and twist the locating pin on the camshaft right in half.

      They have some really sharp people in the dorsum offices like Chris and Billy but the guys who answer the front phones on the helpline generally get out much to be desired. When I was 13 years old I think I knew more they did if they didn't take the computor in their face. I asked Comp for a dimension on the above cam gear and it took 24 hours to measure out one. I chosen Cloyes and they had access to the design drawings and I had my answer in 40 seconds. I buy a lot of Comp stuff merely I NEVER ask them for a recommendation, I tell them what I want.

    • Yes heed to IQ52 y'all gotta talk with a real cam person at those places, usually, well with big companies similar that the 1st person that answers is non who you lot desire.

      You're gonna wind up with something not listed in any catalog, unless its something from utradynes old roller catalogs then you might want that, you lot can see Bullet cams for that

      • Thanks! Thanks! x one
      • 1. If yous decide to get with a roller cam stay with either of ii companies only.

        A. Crane
        B. Comp Cams

        For either visitor you can utilize this Lifters that will piece of work fine on a street motor. make sure yous specify the lower band Lifters to avert oil supply bug. Crane offers a Steel cam gear that replaces the need for bronze gear. Make sure you still use Hello Zinc/Moly Oil. Crane is the number one choice and Comp is a close 2d. In add-on employ Steel rocker arms. Aluminum await very nice but for the street it is only easier to use steel. Hydraulic Rollers require unlike ramp accelerations than solid rollers. So becareful to look at this closely. Dont chince on Timing concatenation use a scroll main or improve. Timing chain encompass should be reinforced for cam button and a torrington behind the sprocket is a good idea. When jump pressure starts to get heavy and so cipher lasts for long.

      • IQ52

        IQ52 Well-Known Member

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        Ouch, don't look a consensus on the cam choices above either. Most of my roller cams are custom ground by Erson, not on their recommendation, but past what I select from their lobe lists.

        I've used ane of the new Crane gears. Information technology is a pain to install simply it seems to be working and wearing well later some lxx dyno runs on a solid street roller cam of approximately 256/260 degrees @ .050".

      • 451Mopar

        451Mopar Well-Known Member

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        After trying a hydraulic roller in the 505" 440, I'm not all that impressed. I thought it would be quieter than it is, but I may exist hearing the roller thrust button or rocker arms?
        My sometime 451 engine had a balmy "street" solid roller from Ultradyne that could go years between valve lash adjustments. The bronze (Mopar operation) oil pump drive lasted a long time as well, and I used a solid thrust button on that engine. On my 505, I retrieve the stock timing chain encompass amplifies the roller sound of the roller thrust button and timing gear thrust begetting? There is nothing incorrect with using flat tappet cams every bit long as you use a good speciality oil with the additional ZDDP, like the Joe Gibbs oil.

      larsonraveld.blogspot.com

      Source: https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/threads/making-the-switch-to-a-roller-cam-and-lifters-in-a-classic-big-block.55289/

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